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Kinnaur Kailash Trek Blog

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Kinnaur Kailash Parikrama Trek

Otherwise called Kinnaur Kailash Parikrama, this trek is circumambulation(parikrama) around holy Kinnaur Kailash Range.
Kinnaur Kailash is one of the 5 Kailash a Shiv Bhakt must-visit (others being Shrikhand Mahadev, Manimahesh Kailash, Adi Kailash, and Kailash Mansarovar).

Kinnaur Kailash itself has two important routes from the pilgrimage perspective.
1) Kinnaur Kailash Shivling – Which is around 4500M ASL, approachable
in a 10 day period only in August. This is a state-sponsored Yatra.

2) Kinnaur Kailash Parikrama aka Charang-La pass which is around 5200 Meters, which this album is all about. This is a very difficult pass crossing in June snow and scree conditions.

It is said the spirits of the dead walk amidst Rangrik peak in the vicinity of Kinnaur Kailash peak. Kinnaur Kailash itself is winter abode to Lord Shiva who conducts darbar for a class of mythological people called Kinnaurs (one who is proficient in music in Hindu Mythology

And apart from the importance of Hinduism, this trek also provides an opportunity to visit the Charang Monastery one of the oldest Buddhist Monasteries in the Himalayas. Unlike the Male Lamas of Ladakh, this particular monastery is inhabited by Buddha Bikshinis (Female Buddha monks)

Kailash Circuit: Charang-La pass trek (Altitude 5270m)

June 2014 expedition blog


Charang La is probably tougher than any other treks and yatra‘s including Kailash itself. The reason being the remoteness of this trek, steepness of Charang-La pass and streams (Nala) to cross are at least 3. In the early season (June/July), snow will ease out boulder hopping, but pass itself will be under thick snow. I would easily reckon the day of CharangLa pass traverse (in June) is difficult than the day of Lamkagha pass traverse.

Since this expedition comes very close to the international border with Tibet, a written permit from SDM Reckong poo is a must and will be verified by Shurting and Charang ITBP. So plan this without fail.
This is a unique trek that starts from a rocky desert-like environment and ends up in the absolute beauty of greenery at Chitkul. So in 5 days’ time, we can experience the change every day. And tents/provisions are a must for at least 3 days after Charang.

To do this trek, one has to take a Jeep Safari (I am not sure about the availability of Bus) from Reckong Peo to Thangi/Lumbar which will cost anywhere from Rs.2500 to 3000 and henceforth trek the next 5 days. This Jeep safari is along Reckong Poo-Pooh-Nako-Kaza (Spiti) highway which is in full grandeur on an ancient mountain system to the Himalayas. Geologists claim this to be the confluence of Himalayas, Dhauladar, and Zanskar mountain systems. Very rugged mountains and the moon-like landscape
(read cold dry rocky dusty).

The trek itself was done as below:

Kinnaur Kailash Circuit Trek Itinerary

  • Day #1 June 16th: Reckong Poo to Thangi by Jeep (along Spiti Highway) and
    further trek to Shurthing (ITBP camp)
  • Day #2 June 17th: Shurthing to Charang Buddhist Monastery and back
    (Views of Rangrik Rang AKA Raacho peak)
  • Day #3 June 18th: Shurthing to Lalanti (Dilapidated ITBP shed is there)
    June 19th: Lalanti to Charang La Base Camp (4800M)
  • Day #4 June 20th: Charang Base Camp to the last village of Kinnaur, Chitkul via incredible and nearly vertical, Snow Clad CharangLa pass @ 5200 Meters ASL.

Trek Guide and Organizer: www.raachotrekkers.com
(Proprietor and Guide: Sohan Negi from Charang Village/Chitkul)

Wild White Roses - Reckong Peo | Kinnaur Kailash Parikrama trek blog
Wild White Roses – Reckong Peo
Apple Orchids - Reckong Peo
Apple Orchids – Reckong Peo
Apple Orchids - Reckong Peo
Apple Orchids – Reckong Pe
Kinnaur Kailash Range - Burning in the morning sun | Kinnaur Kailash Parikrama trek blog
Kinnaur Kailash Range – Burning in the morning sun
Rocky Extensions - A common occurance on Kinnaur highways . The unique geological formations
Rocky Extensions – A common occurrence on Kinnaur highways. The unique geological formations
LandSlips (Enroute Thangi). Had to wait for 2.5 hours to clear. Effects of Hydro Power projects on fragile environment. A daily occurance in Kinnaur. | Kinnaur Kailash Parikrama trek blog
LandSlips (Enroute Thangi). I had to wait for 2.5 hours to clear. Effects of Hydro Power projects on a fragile environment. A daily occurrence in Kinnaur.
Enroute Thangi (Waterfalls like these are commonplace)
Enroute Thangi (Waterfalls like these are commonplace)
Tricky bends. Enroute Thangi
Tricky bends. Enroute Thangi
Enroute Lumbar..me enjoying the rough ride. Guide Sohan Negi in the front. You know i am an adventurer, i cant take the front seat!!!
Enroute Lumbar..me enjoying the rough ride. Guide Sohan Negi in the front. You know i am an adventurer, I cant take the front seat!!!
Enroute Shurting, Fantastic bridge over river Tidong
Enroute Shurting, Fantastic bridge over river Tidong. Tidong is a tributary of the river Satluj.
Enroute Shurthing. About to start the Parikrama and enter the narrow channel over river Tidong
Enroute Shurthing. About to start the Parikrama and enter the narrow channel over river Tidong
Shurting to Charang - Scenaries enroute (River Tidong flowing down) | Kinnaur Kailash Parikrama trek blog
Shurting to Charang – Scenaries en route (River Tidong flowing down)
Shurting to Charang - Vistas enroute (River Tidong flowing down)
Shurting to Charang – Vistas enroute (River Tidong flowing down)
Shurting to Charang - Vistas enroute | Kinnaur Kailash Parikrama trek blog
Shurting to Charang – Vistas enroute
Tidong valley - Charang landscape
Tidong valley – Charang landscape
Looking back toward Shurting
Looking back toward Shurting
Standing before Rangrik Rang Peak and Charang Village is at the background
Standing before Rangrik Rang Peak and Charang Village is at the background
Green landscape of Charang village | Kinnaur Kailash Parikrama trek blog
Green landscape of Charang village
Rangrik Tungma monastery gate , Charang | Kinnaur Kailash Parikrama trek blog
Rangrik Tungma monastery gate , Charang
Rangrik Tungma monastery Charang. The monastery is believed to be one of the earliest monastery established in Kinnaur.
Rangrik Tungma monastery Charang. The monastery is believed to be one of the earliest monasteries established in Kinnaur.
Rangrik Tungma monastery | Kinnaur Kailash Parikrama trek blog
Rangrik Tungma monastery
Inside Rangrik Tungma monastery
Inside Rangrik Tungma monastery
Bronze sculpture of a Buddist deity inside Rangrik Tungma monastery
Bronze sculpture of a Buddist deity inside Rangrik Tungma monastery
Inside a local house in Charang Village
Inside a local house in Charang Village
Wooden roof of the house in Charang
Wooden roof of the house in Charang
Wild Flowers out of rocks - Where there is a will there is a way
Wild Flowers out of rocks – Where there is a will there is a way
Wild Flowers out of rocks - Where there is a will there is a way
Wild Flowers out of rocks – Where there is a will there is a way
Unwinding on the boulder bed..
Unwinding on the boulder bed..
Scenary enroute Lalanti meadows
Scenary enroute Lalanti meadows.
Scenary enroute Shurting to Lalanti
Scenary enroute Shurting to Lalanti
Scenary enroute Shurting to Lalanti
Scenary enroute Shurting to Lalanti
Scenary on Shurting to Lalanti route
Scenery on Shurting to Lalanti route
Before reaching LalanTi
Before reaching LalanTi
Approaching LalanTi meadows | Kinnaur Kailash Parikrama trek blog
Approaching LalanTi meadows
River crossing enroute LalanTi
River crossing enroute LalanTi
Just below Lalanti meadows campsite
Just below Lalanti meadows campsite
Relaxing on the Lalanti meadows
Relaxing on the Lalanti meadows
Lalanti medows Campsite | Kinnaur Kailash Parikrama trek blog
Lalanti medows Campsite
Porters raising campfire @ Lalanti (Tashi and Omkar)
Porters raising campfire @ Lalanti (Tashi and Omkar)
At Lalanti meadows campsite | Kinnaur Kailash Parikrama trek blog
At Lalanti meadows campsite
Pitstop before Charang la pass basecamp | Kinnaur Kailash Parikrama trek blog
Pitstop before Charang la pass basecamp
Scenary @ Lalanti to CharangLa Base Camp route
Scenery @ Lalanti to CharangLa Base Camp route
Charang - La base camp
Charang – La base camp
Views from Charang - La base camp | Kinnaur Kailash Parikrama trek blog
Views from Charang – La base camp
Imposing sight of Charang-La from the base camp | Kinnaur Kailash Parikrama trek blog
The imposing sight of Charang-La from the base camp
Looking backwards at Glacial Lake while climbing the Charang- La pass | Kinnaur Kailash Parikrama trek blog
Looking backward at Glacial Lake while climbing the Charang- La pass
Charang-La climb
Charang-La climb
Can you spot the climber near the base?
Can you spot the climber near the base?
Looking backwards at Glacial Lake - enroute Charang-La
Looking backwards at Glacial Lake – enroute Charang-La
Taking a breather - CharangLa ascent
Taking a breather – CharangLa ascent
Looking backwards at Glacial Lake - en route CharangLa | Kinnaur Kailash Parikrama trek blog
Looking backwards at Glacial Lake – en route CharangLa
The slope - Charang-La pass | Kinnaur Kailash Parikrama trek blog
The slope – Charang-La pass
The snowscape - vista of the mountain range | Kinnaur Kailash Parikrama trek blog
The snowscape – vista of the mountain range
Cook Prakash Rathi. He helped me a lot to ascend CharangLa. He is the real hero. | Kinnaur Kailash Parikrama trek blog
Cook Prakash Rathi. He helped me a lot to ascend CharangLa. He is the real hero.
Charang La - Scenary from the top (notice the scree) | Kinnaur Kailash Parikrama trek blog
Charang La – Scenary from the top (notice the scree)
Steep scree slope.. the descent was slippery and taxing | Kinnaur Kailash Parikrama trek blog
Steep scree slope.. the descent was slippery and taxing
finally Chitkul is in sight... Chitkul is last village on Indo - Tibet border located in the Baspa/Sangla valley
finally Chitkul is in sight... Chitkul is last village on Indo – Tibet border located in the Baspa/Sangla valley
The Sangla valley , Chitkul | Kinnaur Kailash Parikrama trek blog
The Sangla valley, Kinnaur.  Chitkul village can be seen at the base of the Baspa river valley.
Chitkul village - The gem of Sangla valley
Chitkul village – The gem of Sangla valley

Blog by Shyam Sundar Ramachandran

Categories
Blog Garhwal Mountaineering Trekking

Lamkhaga Pass Trek – May 2018 Expedition Blog

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Chitkul to Gangotri/Harsil Trek

Lamkhaga Pass (5282m) (Chitkul to Harsil), May 2018
This Himalayan high pass divides Kinnaur, Himachal Pradesh from Uttarakhand in India. We followed the following route:
Chitkul to Rani Kanda
-Rani Kanda to Dhumti
-Dhumti to Gundar
-Gundar to Lamkhaga advance base camp (Kinnaur side) (One may break this climb till base camp 1 and next day to advance base camp…….we skipped)
-Advance base camp to Upper Kyarkoti after crossing Lamkhaga pass (Again, you may camp at Lamkhaga pass base camp of Gangotri side followed by trek till Kyarkoti…….we decided to continue beyond base camp and camp at upper Kyarkoti)
-Upper Kyarkoti to Kyarkoti
-Kyarkoti to Gangnani
-Gangnani to Harsilsn
This is a remote pass and very few groups have finished this. Thus it could be a good option for all those who loves to visit the under-explored! Raacho Trekkers team did the first recce of the route from Kinnaur side in 2014.

First day camping at Ranikanda near Chitkul[Lamkhaga pass trek 2018]
First day camping at Ranikanda near Chitkul
View of Baspa glacier snout[Lamkhaga pass trek]
View of Baspa glacier snout
Huge icicles near Baspa glacier ice cave[Lamkhaga pass trek]
Huge icicles near Baspa glacier ice cave
Baspa glacier ice cave [Lamkhaga pass trek 2018]
Baspa glacier ice cave [Lamkhaga pass trek 2018]
Baspa glacier ice cave [Lamkhaga pass trek 2018]
Baspa glacier ice cave [Lamkhaga pass trek 2018]
Climbing up to the Lamkhaga pass base camp
Climbing up to the Lamkhaga pass base camp
Lamkhaga pass base camp [Lamkhaga 2018]
Lamkhaga pass base camp
Baspa Glacier. Chotakhaga pass is visible in the background.[Lamkhaga pass 2018]
Baspa Glacier. Chotakhaga pass is visible in the background.[Lamkhaga pass 2018]
View from base camp [Lamkhaga pass 2018]
View from base camp
Water pumped out off the glacier beneath the tent......trying to reset the tents [Lamkhaga pass 2018]
Water pumped out off the glacier beneath the tent……trying to reset the tents [Lamkhaga pass 2018]
Trying to dig out some water from beneath the glacier at advance base camp[Lamkhaga pass 2018]
Trying to dig out some water from beneath the glacier at advance base camp[Lamkhaga pass 2018]
Climbing Lamkhaga pass [Lamkhaga pass trek 2018]
Climbing Lamkhaga pass
Lamkhaga pass top
Lamkhaga pass top
View of Uttrakhand side glacier
View of Uttrakhand side glacier
Jalandri Gad amphitheater [Lamkhaga pass trek 2018]
Jalandri Gad amphitheater [Lamkhaga pass trek 2018]
Jalandri Gad stream making way through the glacier [Lamkhaga pass trek 2018]
Jalandri Gad stream making way through the glacier
Descending into the Jalandri Gad valley [Lamkhaga pass trek 2018]
Descending into the Jalandri Gad valley [Lamkhaga pass trek 2018]
Origin of Jalandri gad stream. Jalandri Gad is a right bank tributary of Bhagirathi river
Origin of Jalandri gad stream. Jalandri Gad is a right bank tributary of Bhagirathi river
The ridge[Lamkhaga pass trek 2018]
The ridge
Upper Kyarkoti... Jalandhari gad valley[Lamkhaga pass trek]
Upper Kyarkoti… Jalandhari gad valley
Meadows of Kyarkoti. Harsil valley Uttrakhand[Lamkhaga pass trek 2018]
Meadows of Kyarkoti. Harsil valley Uttrakhand

Blog by Upasana Ray

Categories
Auden's Col Blog Garhwal

Auden’s Col Expedition & Khatling Glacier Trek Blog

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Patangini>Auden’s Col>Khatling Glacier Trek Expedition

Auden’s Col is a mountain pass, it is approachable from Gangotri and one can trek up to Kedarnath following Auden’s Col and Khatling glacier. Auden’s Col gets its name from J B Auden, a famous British geologist. He first explored the region in the year 1939. It connects the mountain peaks Jogin I (6465m) and Gangotri III (6580m) and is at a height of around 5242m. Auden’s Col separates two glaciers on either side – Khatling glacier on the south and Jogin Bhamak on the north.

The Three Passes Trek Of June 2018

It couldn’t have meant more than en route the three pass trek covering Patangini Dhar, Kedar Tal, Auden’s Col, and Khatling glacier (due to the fierce Bhilangna river in spate we couldn’t cross over to complete the last part of Mayali pass… and of which Auden’s Col I couldn’t cross without much help). But too much predictability and it’s no longer an adventure. And maybe that is why we throw ourselves to the elements to feel real, raw and alive. I’m glad I did.

Auden's Col & Mayali pass trek route map
Auden’s Col & Mayali pass trek map

All this wouldn’t have been possible without the expert organization of Raacho Trekkers. The coolest staff, the food was to die for (think mangoes and cake and pasta and thukpa at higher altitudes) and OMG did I mention the tents? We had a 2-inch foam mattress and it was like a real bed every night. I can’t do enough justice talking about our experienced dedicated leader Sonu Negi. Those who know him, know of his leadership, initiative, and knowledge of the terrain, wildlife, and what he is capable of those who don’t if you are to do a high Himalayan pass do it with Raacho trekkers – you will be in safe professional hands.

Cloud Carpet. Gangotri National Park. Uttrakhand[Three passes trek : Audens-Mayali-Patangini Dhar]
Cloud Carpet. Gangotri National Park. Uttrakhand
High meadows. Gangotri National Park[Three passes trek : Audens-Mayali-Patangini Dhar]
High meadows. Gangotri National Park
Near Bhoj Kharak campsite[Three passes trek : Audens-Mayali-Patangini Dhar]
Near Bhoj Kharak campsite
Approaching Kedar kharak campsite[Three passes trek : Audens-Mayali-Patangini Dhar]
Approaching Kedar Kharak campsite
En route Kedartal. Gangotri National Park.[Three passes trek : Audens-Mayali-Patangini Dhar]
En route Kedartal. Gangotri National Park.
First sightings - from left Bhrigupanth at 6772 m and ThalaySagar at 6904 m.[Three passes trek : Audens-Mayali-Patangini Dhar]
First sightings – from left Bhrigupanth at 6772 m and ThalaySagar at 6904 m
Manda range from Kedar Kharak campsite[Three passes trek : Audens-Mayali-Patangini Dhar]
Manda range from Kedar Kharak campsite
Views from Kedar Kharak campsite[Three passes trek : Audens-Mayali-Patangini Dhar]
Views from Kedar Kharak campsite
Approaching KedarTal. [Three passes trek : Audens-Mayali-Patangini Dhar]
Approaching KedarTal.
Kedartal and ThalyaSagar. Gangotri National Park.[Three passes trek : Audens-Mayali-Patangini Dhar]
Kedartaal and ThalyaSagar. Gangotri National Park.
The magnificent Kedartal and Thalaysagar peak[Three passes trek : Audens-Mayali-Patangini Dhar]
The magnificent Kedartal and Thalaysagar peak
wonder what made this so smokey..[Three passes trek : Audens-Mayali-Patangini Dhar]
Wonder what made this so smokey..
Contemplating by the Kedartal Lake. [Three passes trek : Audens-Mayali-Patangini Dhar]
Contemplating by the Kedartal Lake.
The day my shoes broke near Kedar Tal.[Three passes trek : Audens-Mayali-Patangini Dhar]
The day my shoes broke near Kedar Tal.
Manda range, Bhrighupant, Thalay Sagar. Gangotri National Park. [Three passes trek : Audens-Mayali-Patangini Dhar]
Manda range, Bhrighupant, Thalay Sagar.
Gangotri National Park.
Raacho Trekkers team member Rajeev on the way up to Patangini dhaar...the day Manish taught me the zig zag[Three passes trek : Audens-Mayali-Patangini Dhar]
Raacho Trekkers team member Rajeev on the way up to Patangini dhaar…the day Manish taught me the zig zag
How many can you spot?[Three passes trek : Audens-Mayali-Patangini Dhar]
How many can you spot?
On Patangini dhaar 5085m[Three passes trek : Audens-Mayali-Patangini Dhar]
On Patangini Dhar 5085m
Vineet leading the expedition[Three passes trek : Audens-Mayali-Patangini Dhar]
Vineet leading the expedition
Audens Col 5490 m[Three passes trek : Audens-Mayali-Patangini Dhar]
Auden’s Col 5490 m.
Advance base camp before the Auden's col[Three passes trek : Audens-Mayali-Patangini Dhar]
Advance base camp before the Auden’s col
The Gangotri range[Three passes trek : Audens-Mayali-Patangini Dhar]
The Gangotri range
The day after Auden's Col on Khatling glacier
The day after Auden’s Col on Khatling glacier
Somewhere along Khatling Glacier
Somewhere along Khatling Glacier
Endless Khatling Glacier
Endless Khatling Glacier
Waterfalls in the Bhilangana valley
Waterfalls in the Bhilangana valley
Green meadows of Bhilangana valley
The beautiful Bhilangana valley… full of wildlife and variety of birds species
Me, myself and the wild and tame creatures in Bhilangana valley.[Three passes trek : Audens-Mayali-Patangini Dhar]
Me, myself and the wild and tame creatures in Bhilangana valley
Last campsite in Bhilanganga valley
Last campsite. Bhilanganga valley
Old wooden house in Bhilangana valley of Uttarakhand
Houses of Bhilangana valley Uttrakhand
Painted house in Bhilangana valley
Houses in Bhilangana valley
A wild herb called Rubharb found in Bhilangana valley
Rubharb!!!! the original variety not wild but wild
Makeshift bridge over Bhilangana river
Makeshift Bridge over Bhilangana river
View from the Bhilangana campsite
View from the campsite.


Blog by Sridevi Nair

Categories
Blog Chitkul village Kinnaur Trekking

Lamkhaga Pass Trek Expedition blog

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Lamkhaga Pass Trek log | In The Footsteps Of Marco Pallis

Chitkul-Gangotri Trek

[Chitkul: The last village of Kinnaur, Himachal to Harsil via Lamkhaga Pass (5284mtr)] [MAY – June 2015 ]

TREK ITINERARY :

28th May: Reach Base Camp Chitkul by road from Shimla

Trek Starts:

  • Day #1 29th May: Chitkul (3435 meters) to Nagasthi – Rani Kanda (3700 meters) 10 km 5 hr trek.
  • Day #2 30th May: Rani Kanda to Dumti (4050 meters) – 9 km/5 hr trek.
  • Day #3 31st May: Dumti to Gundar (4450 meter) – 15km/7 hr trek
  • Day #4 1st June: Gundar (4400 mtrs) to Lamkhaga Pass Base Camp (4400 meters)
  • Day #5 2nd June: Lamkhaga Pass BC to Base Camp 2 (Kinnaur)
  • Day #6 3rd June: Lamkhaga Pass BC(Kinnaur) to Lamkhaga Pass BC (Gangotri Side) via Lamkhaga Pass (5282 mts/17320 ft) / 14432 ft) 11 km/6 – 7 hr trek
  • Day #7 4th June: Lamkhaga Pass Base Camp to Kyarkoti (3820 meter) – 16 km/7 – 8 hr trek
  • Day #8 5th June: Kyarkoti to Harsil (2400 meter) – 14 km/6-7 hr trek

DAY1:

CHANDIGARH- SHIMLA:
Pahadi Hospitality at its best: All restaurants were closed by the time we reached Shimla. After searching for food nearby passport office without any vehicle(our driver had left after dropping us at the hotel) we failed to get one. It was 12 am, the hotel manager and his assistant had to specially prepare rice and dal for us from their own personal kitchen.

DAY2:

SHIMLA-KALPA
Enchanting Kinnaur, Irritating hydro-projects, awesome curvy drive, and the humble driver:
First of all, thank you Vikas for arranging the car. Will make sure to recommend him to my friends if needed at all in the future.
Today’s journey began with Aloo paranthas and a glass of bournvita just on the outskirts of Shimla. While eating parathas, we never thought that we will be hating paranthas so much at the end of our journey and we still do while I type this, however you will come to know as the Tlog progresses. Weather was pleasant and eating fresh Narkanda cherries was surely a ‘cherry on top’ to add in this journey.
The tea and the mischievous kids playing at Wangtoo tea house was fun. One layer of cloth comes out of the bag at this place.Brrrrr! Though we were driving on NER, the vistas were getting more beautiful. We reached Rakpa regency at Kalpa @10pm passing through muddy Karcham-Powari stretch to the beautiful dark town of Reckong Peo, through clouds and rains which got vanished later when we entered our room. The moonlit Kinner Kailash range was the most beautiful vista ever and the long tiring journey was totally worth it for this.

Near Chaura Check post [Lamkhaga pass expedition 2015]
Near Chaura Check post
Boundary gate of Kinnaur district [Lamkhaga pass expedition 2015]
Boundary gate of Kinnaur district
View across Satluj valley [Lamkhaga pass expedition 2015]
View across Satluj valley
Tranda Dhank kinnaur [Lamkhaga pass expedition 2015]
The construction of the Hindustan Tibet road in Himachal Pradesh began in 1850. The 637 Km road from Firozpur, Punjab to Shipki-La is also known as National Highway No. 5. It passes through the foothills of Shivalik Ranges, Shimla, Kingal and then runs along the river Satluj and thereafter passes through Rampur, Powari, and Pooh. From Khab to Sumdo, the road runs along the river Spiti. From Kalka to Wangtu, the 335 Km stretch is under the control of the Himachal Pradesh Public Works Department. While from Wangtu to Korik, it is under the Border Roads Organisation. This road has been featured on the National Geographic Channel as ‘The World’s Deadliest Roads’.
Tranda Dhank, Hindustan Tibet road Kinnaur.
National Highway 5 [Chaura - Bhabanagar stretch , Lamkhaga pass expedition 2015]
National Highway 5 [Chaura – Bhabanagar stretch]
Satluj river choked by numerous Hydro electric project built on the river [Lamkhaga pass expedition 2015]
Satluj river choked by numerous Hydroelectric project built on the river
Places in Kinnaur and their altitude [Lamkhaga pass expedition 2015]
Places in Kinnaur and their altitude

DAY3

KALPA – Hike to CHAKKA KANDA (~4000mtr)- KALPA and drive to CHITKUL

Chakka is a small peak which lies behind and above Kalpa town. Though a small hike for a little bit more than 1000mtr, it is a very good place for acclimatization for all the trekkers/travelers in that region. Just below the peak, lies Chakka Kanda, a lake that is culturally important for Kinnauris. It takes 2 -3 hours to reach.
We hired a car to Chitkul at 4 pm from Kalpa after descending down from Chakka Kanda.

Hotel in Kalpa: Rakpa Regency & Hotel in Chitkul: Shenshah/Shahenshah/Shen Sha or whatever you call it. Both the properties are run by Mr. Sandeep Karar.
All the rooms were charged 1500 INR/room after immense bargaining in advance as we did not had any options left. The stay at Kalpa has to be the best for its hospitality and views.

Hotel to Chakka Kanda
Time taken: 2 1/2 hours
Height gained: 800 meters. Just before lake, we stopped due to time restrictions.

Night Landscape , Kalpa [Lamkhaga pass expedition 2015]
Night Landscape, Kalpa
Night Landscape view of Kinner Kailash range , Kalpa [Lamkhaga pass expedition 2015]
Night Landscape view of Kinner Kailash range, Kalpa
That Morning , Kalpa [Lamkhaga pass expedition 2015]
That Morning, Kalpa
Chaka meadows can be seen from our hotel, Kalpa [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Chaka meadows can be seen from our hotel, Kalpa
Chaka stream , en route Chaka meadows , Kalpa [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Chaka stream, en route Chaka meadows, Kalpa
Walking along Chaka stream , en route Chaka meadows , Kalpa [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Walking along Chaka stream, en route Chaka meadows, Kalpa
Chaka stream , en route Chaka meadows , Kalpa [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Chaka stream, en route Chaka meadows, Kalpa
Walking along Chaka stream , en route Chaka meadows , Kalpa [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Walking along Chaka stream, en route Chaka meadows, Kalpa
Pebbled path , en route Chaka meadows trek [Lamkhaga pass trek 2015]
Pebbled path, en route Chaka meadows trek
Chaka stream , en route Chaka meadows , Kalpa [Lamkhaga passChaka stream , en route Chaka meadows , Kalpa [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015] trek expedition 2015]
Chaka stream, en route Chaka meadows, Kalpa
Chaka meadows , Kalpa [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Chaka meadows, Kalpa
Somewhere above ~500 metres is the last house enroute , Chaka meadows trek [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015 ]
Somewhere above ~500 meters is the last house enroute, Chaka meadows trek
View from the hotel room , Kalpa [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
View from the hotel room, Kalpa
View from the hotel room , Kalpa [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
View from the hotel room, Kalpa
The hotel where we stayed at Kalpa , [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
The hotel where we stayed at Kalpa
The weather that night in Chitkul was luckily clear , Chitkul [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
The weather that night in Chitkul was luckily clear, Chitkul

DAY 4

CHITKUL Village.

Starting our day with super hot chai with amazing clouds in the sky. Parathas and Omelette were the only options for breakfast. It was an acclimatization day for all and we decided to start it by 11 am. Our guide and the support team reached at Chitkul at 5 pm. There were 8 porters and 1 cook along. They camped on the banks of river Baspa.
Meanwhile, we unpacked and packed our rucksacks again just to make sure the weight is balanced accordingly that day.

Time taken: 2 hours
Height Gained: 130mtr, towards Nagasthi ITBP and a small hill on the left.

Camping by the Baspa river , Chitkul [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Camping by the Baspa river, Chitkul
That morning at Chitkul [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
That morning at Chitkul
Dhaula peak locally called aka P6465m. [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Dhaula peak locally called aka P6465m.
A home in the Himalaya [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
A home in the Himalaya
[Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
The route to Kinnaur Kailash Circuit trek goes through these house all the way up to the glaciers visible in background.
Indigenous livestock , Chitkul [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Indigenous livestock, Chitkul
Chitkul Landscapes , Baspa valley [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Chitkul Landscapes, Baspa valley
Kitchen in the woods , Chitkul [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Kitchen in the woods, Chitkul
Kinnauri Sheepdog, Chitkul [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Kinnauri Sheepdog(Hapsu) at Chitkul
Hiking around Chitkul [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Hiking around Chitkul
Hiking around Chitkul [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Hiking around Chitkul
An evening in Chitkul [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Sunny day at Chitkul
An evening in Chitkul [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
One of many mountain stream flowing through the Chitkul Village
An evening in Chitkul [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Another serene evening in Chitkul
That night in Chitkul [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
That night in Chitkul

Who was Marco Pallis and why Lamkhaga?

  • A Greek-British author and mountaineer who was famous for his writings on Tibetan Buddhism. He made the first ascent of Leo Pargial(6790m), one of the highest in Kinnaur Himal(not be confused with Reo Purgyal) starting from Harsil all the way via unexplored/climbed LAMKHAGA PASS and then into Sutlej-Spiti valley to climb the peak in 1933. Well, we are doing the right opposite to him what he did.

Can this trek done from both the sides?

  • Yes. It takes ~7 to 10 days from both sides depending on the weather.

What is the route?
From Chitkul :
Chitkul-Nagasthi-Ranikanda-Dumti-Nithal Thatch- Base camp(Baspa Glacier)-Advance base camp- Lamkhaga pass- Base camp(Harsil side)-Kyarkoti-Harsil

From Harsil :
Harsil-Banswari nalla- Gangnani -Kyarkoti-Base camp(Sukha thal)-Advance base camp(aka Pass ke neeche)- Lamkhaga pass-Base camp(Chitkul side)-Dumti-Ranikanda or Chitkul.

Personally, I feel the ascent from Harsil is more daunting. Continuous ascent! unlike gradual incline at many places from the Chitkul side. But both are equal in difficulty.

Do we need an Inner line Permit for this trek and from where to get it?

  • DC office in Reckong Peo for people starting from the Chitkul side.
  • DC office in Uttarkashi for people starting from the Harsil side.

Porters are easily available from Uttarkashi or Gangotri(UK) and Reckong Peo(HP) and NOT HARSIL OR CHITKUL.

Must Equipment:
Ropes, Ice Axe, Gaiters, Alpine tents(neither t3, nor t2 please) and yes Microspikes will be helpful in the month of May-June.

Altitude:

I am still confused with its altitude. According to our altimeter(G-shock) which was well calibrated, showed up 5300metres on the pass. Old maps say 5284metres and some source says 5326metres.

Best Time:

There is no best time to visit higher regions, the weather takes a toll on any day/anytime. Still it is doable from Mid-May till Mid October.

Grade:

Difficult

TREK DAY 1.

Chitkul -Nagasthi(ITBP Checkpost) -Ranikanda.

A simple walk for 4 hours takes us to the beautiful Ranikanda camp site at 3700m which is situated just few metres away from Baspa river. Where we faced rain, a little headache, cold and dramatic sky.
Had the most delicious Khichdi and the soup for the lunch and Roti- Sabji-Salad for the dinner.

Bye bye Chitkul [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Bye bye Chitkul
Camping at Ranikanda , Trekking Day 1 [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Camping at Ranikanda, Trekking Day 1
View of upper Baspa Valley [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
View of upper Baspa Valley
Reaching Ranikanda , View of upper Baspa Valley [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Reaching Ranikanda, View of upper Baspa Valley
Reaching Ranikanda , View of upper Baspa Valley [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Reaching Ranikanda , View of upper Baspa Valley
Camping at Ranikanda meadows , View of upper Baspa Valley [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Camping at Ranikanda meadows, View of upper Baspa Valley
Camping at Ranikanda meadows [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Camping at Ranikanda meadows
Teatime , Camping at Ranikanda [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Teatime , Camping at Ranikanda
Camping at Ranikanda [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Camping at Ranikanda
Mangsu sub-range in Great Himalayan range. Charang village is situated behind this, Camping at Ranikanda [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Mangsu sub-range in the Great Himalayan range. Charang village is situated behind this, Camping at Ranikanda
Cook serving warm water , Camping at Ranikanda [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Cook serving warm water , Camping at Ranikanda

TREK DAY 2.

Ranikanda – Lal Dhang – Dumti

8am:- AP’s struggle with rucksack weight and severe AMS.

It was a long hike that day going up to 4050m. Though the weather was clear, we had no trust in it either. Soon AP informed us he was having a mild headache but was okay to continue. But from the previous evening, it did not get any better, even after acclimatization walk up to 500ft nearby. He was walking slowly along with few members and porters. He gave up just before Lal Dhang at 10:30 am. His headache remained the same. VB who was walking along with him and me took his heavy rucksack, which he was carrying and in return gave his small camera bag to AP. Meanwhile, our guide Negi saw us from the edge, which was far away on Lal Dhank. He knew something was wrong and waited for us to cross the tricky part. Things were getting serious at that moment.

Negi’s views on AP:- Returning back to Chitkul did not make any sense as it is already at 3450m. It would take 5 -6 hours to reach from where we stood and descending further till Sangla (2800m) after that was completely out of the question. Continuing all the way till Dumti, which is at 4050m is again a threatening act to do. But Dumti had an ITBP camp. It had medical facilities. It had oxygen tanks but nothing in Chitkul. The only struggle was that tough scary walk from Lal Dhang till Dumti for 4 hours in the worst weather with poor visibility, wind, snow, and drizzle along. On one side it was Baspa river which was invisible and ferociously flowing down below and on the other side falling tiny rocks and slippery slopes to negotiate. All team members were separated and were just following the broken trail.
Negi was taking care of AP and was slowly walking far behind holding his hands.

We reached Dumti at 2:30 pm and along with Negi reached at 3:30 pm. But soon, he started hallucinating!

That morning! Ranikanda meadows [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
That morning! Ranikanda meadows
Kitchen tent can be seen far away in middle. Mangsu Charang range behind. [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Kitchen tent can be seen far away in the middle. Mangsu – Charang range behind.
Baspa river, near Ranikanda ITBP post. [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Baspa river, near Ranikanda ITBP post.
2 team members can be seen here. A wide horizontal angle image could have worked here to show the actual steepness of terrain. [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
2 team members can be seen here. A wide horizontal angle image could have worked here to show the actual steepness of the terrain.
Well, I hope I did good with 18-55mm here ?[Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Well, I hope I did well with 18-55mm here?
Our porter Gopal at work. [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Our porter Gopal at work.
Our guide Negi waiting for us. [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Our guide Negi waiting for us.
VB & Gopal helping AP. [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
VB & Gopal helping AP.
Taking a breath [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Taking a breath
Views of upper Baspa valley [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Views of upper Baspa valley

3:30pm: AP Hallucinations at Dumti

Our cook, Rathiji prepared “sheera“(they call it halwa) after a small darshan at Karu temple. We served a tiny portion to AP in the tent. It took him 20 minutes to gulp 2 serves. He did not know what he was eating, neither he was responding to anyone. His oxygen levels started deteriorating. We immediately took him to the ITBP camp which had medical facilities as I have mentioned above. We made him sit in one of the bunkers for the warmth, but soon he started dozing off. Meanwhile, we literally requested the medical personnel to give him supplementary oxygen as soon as possible. He was made to lay down by holding his hands on the medical bed. We played music in the background so that he won’t sleep which would turn out to be fatal in such conditions. It took 15 minutes for him to get back to normal, which stayed temporary.

Well, when we asked him how was he feeling? He did not remember how and what had happened. He did not remember anything, neither the “sheera” nor the supplementary oxygen. Every half an hour, he was given supplementary oxygen till 6:00 pm for 5 minutes and some medicines(NOT DIAMOX).
Meanwhile, few members from our team had won the cricket game against the ITBP team.

AP was my tent mate. I kept on checking his oxygen levels throughout that cold night. Luckily he was OK the next morning but had to send back with one of the porters.

Playing cricket at 4050 meter altitude [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Playing cricket at 4050-meter altitude
Always maintain distance, so that snoring sounds wont clash [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Always maintain distance, so that snoring sounds won’t clash
Cricket field of Dumti ITBP camps [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Cricket field of Dumti ITBP camps
We remember them everyday for the courage and for their hospitality [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
We remember them every day for the courage and for their hospitality
A peak arise just towards the back of ITBP camp. [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
A peak arises just towards the back of the ITBP camp.
Night was the only time, when sky used to open up [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
The night was the only time when sky used to open up.
Our strength [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Sturdy porters..Our strength

TREK DAY 3

Dumti-Nithal Thatch- Gundar

The day began with Parathas and Bhindi subzi for breakfast following with the small pooja at Karu temple. A walk by banks of River Baspa all the way till Gundar Camp at 4450m. It was an easy but long walk over rocks and slight height gain. We reached around 2:00 pm. SC fell in the water while crossing it just before the camp and while rescuing her, Nishchay fell too. Quite a tough moment for both of them.

By 3:30 pm, we hiked up 1000ft for acclimatization. Due to the weather, things got worse again.
And it was again Parathas for lunch.

Dumti expanse [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Dumti expanse
Dumti - Nithal Thach expanse [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Dumti – Nithal Thach expanse
Nithal Thach meadows [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Nithal Thach meadows
Thola peak as seen from Dumti.... From the ITBP loo to be precise [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Thola peak as seen from Dumti…. From the ITBP loo to be precise
Boulder stretch en route Gundar [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Boulder stretch en route Gundar
Balancing act! [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Balancing act!
Hiking nearby while the camp was being set up [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Hiking nearby while the camp was being set up
Waiting for the sunshine [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Waiting for the sunshine.
Hiking nearby while the camp was being set up [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Hiking nearby while the camp was being set up.
Baspa Glacier in the background. [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Baspa Glacier in the background.
Towards Tibet [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Towards Tibet
Nithal Thatch grounds and ITBP post is just to the right. The time when we started enjoying the vistas around, snowfall began..[Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Nithal Thatch grounds and ITBP post is just to the right.
The time when we started enjoying the vistas around, the snowfall began.
Utro Utro Niche!!!!!.....The actual trek begins from here. The poor visibility and weather follows us all the way till Kyarktoti for next 3 days. [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Utro Utro Niche! (Come…Come down fast!)The actual trek begins from here. The poor visibility and weather follow us all the way till Kyarktoti for the next 3 days.
Snowfall at Nithal Thach , [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Snowfall at Nithal Thach.
Nischay doing some Jugaad with his wet boots... tough times ahead [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Nishchay doing some Jugaad with his wet boots… tough times ahead.

TREK DAY 4

Gundar to Immediate Camp( 2 hours before Baspa Glacier/Lamkhaga Base camp).

Probably the most beautiful morning we witnessed here. The night was just out of the world with millions of stars and the bright moon and the lit on high peaks, but it was freezing at the same time. It was difficult for me to remove the camera from the bag and tripod at that time. However, I would like to say that, those irregular nature calls in the middle of the night have given us a lot of positive opportunities to see the actual beauty through naked eyes. Words are less to describe, so does the camera.

We woke up at 4 am and had Chapatis for breakfast with Achar and papaya porridge. It had snowed a lot. The first step of the day was snow. There were pug marks of some kind of animals parallel to us. First, we presumed it to be snow leopards……LOL. But it may have been wild fox’s, we partially confirmed after immense discussion with each other. A few days after looking at the photographs, we thought that it would be some bird’s footsteps. Maybe!!!

We had to cross the Baspa stream that day. There was an icy and slippery layer on the stones. So balancing on top of stones and crossing would make us fall in the bone freezing water. It took us half an hour to cross it. But Karan fell in the water while helping out RS and she was all fine. It was a funny but frustrating situation. Snowfall increased as we move further when Negiji finally had to stop. Because going further in that bad weather and pitching tents on glacier camp would be dangerous. It took 2 hours for the porters who were behind us. Finally, at 1:00 pm, we pitched our tents with all the wet boots and wet bags.

To the East of Nithal Thach camp [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
To the East of Nithal Thach camp.
To the North of Nithal Thach Camp [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
To the North of Nithal Thach Camp.
To the South of Nithal thach camp site [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
To the South of Nithal thach campsite.
And us in the center of Nithal Thach Camp site [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
And us in the center of Nithal Thach Campsite.
And us in the center of Nithal Thach Camp site [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
And us in the center of Nithal Thach Campsite.
Our guide mending the way [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Our guide mending the way.
Rashmi had brought Kasim's old shoes on her trek. She managed to cross the pass successfully with it.[Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Rashmi had brought Kasim’s old shoes on her trek. She managed to cross the pass successfully with it.
Looks more like trekking poles marks... lol, BUT IT'S NOT.[Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Looks more like trekking poles marks… lol, BUT IT’S NOT.
Gundar camp site [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Gundar camp site.
Gundar camp site [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Gundar campsite.
Looking back towards Gundar.[Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Looking back towards Gundar.
The views around Gundar .[Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
The views around Gundar.
Gundar camp site [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Gundar campsite.
In the evening, things used to get normal.[Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
In the evening, things used to get normal.
This was the situation, where we decided not to move further.[Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
This was the situation, where we decided not to move further.
Waiting for the storm to subside , Gundar [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Waiting for the storm to subside, Gundar
In the evening, things used to get normal. Gundar camp site [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
In the evening, things used to get normal. Gundar campsite
In the evening, things used to get normal. Gundar camp site [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
In the evening, things used to get normal. Gundar campsite.
In the evening, things used to get normal. Gundar camp site [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
In the evening, things used to get normal. Gundar campsite.
In the evening, things used to get normal. Gundar camp site [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
In the evening, things used to get normal. Gundar campsite.

TREK DAY 5

Immediate Camp – Baspa Glacier -Lamkhaga Base camp – Lamkhaga Advance Base Camp( aka Pass ke neeche)-5100m

We were already running behind the schedule( say 5 hours time). We started to climb at 4am. It was freezing and the weather was deteriorating again. Rathiji our cook, lead the team members, whereas our guide led the team of porters. In no meantime, all porters overtook us and waited on the snowy slopes.

Rangrik Rang assumed -6553m after checking out Leomann maps. [Lamhaga pass expedition]
Rangrik Rang assumed -6553m after checking out Leomann maps.
Near Baspa glacier snout [Lamkhaga pass expedition 2015]
Near Baspa glacier snout
Near Baspa glacier snout [Lamkhaga pass expedition 2015]
Near Baspa glacier snout
Close up of Rangrik Rang -6553m [Lamkhaga pass expedition]
Close up of Rangrik Rang -6553m
Lamkhaga gully [Lamkhaga pass expedition 2015]
Lamkhaga gully
Inside Baspa Glacier snout. Looks so small, but it was too scary and large to even stand here and click. [Lamkhaga pass expedition 2015]
Inside Baspa Glacier snout. Looks so small, but it was too scary and large to even stand here and click.
Baspa glacier snout [Lamkhaga pass expedition 2015]
Baspa glacier snout
Baspa glacier snout [Lamkhaga pass expedition 2015]
Baspa glacier snout
Baspa glacier [Lamkhaga pass expedition 2015]
Baspa glacier. The origin of Baspa river.
Baspa glacier snout [Lamkhaga pass expedition 2015]
Baspa glacier snout
Climbing the Lamkhaga gradient [Lamkhaga pass expedition 2015]
Climbing the Lamkhaga gradient
Start of the climb [Lamkhaga pass expedition 2015]
Start of the climb
Climbing the Lamkhaga gradient [Lamkhaga pass expedition 2015]
Climbing the Lamkhaga gradient.
Climbing up to the advance base camp [Lamkhaga pass expedition 2015]
Climbing up to the advance base camp

We reached Lamkhaga Base Camp at 7 am for a short hungry break of dry fruits and water, as it was not easy to digest Parathas early in the morning. We took some rest and started climbing on a 50-degree incline with deep snow.
Plan of the day was to reach the Advance Base camp, just below the pass which was 7 hours far from where we were standing on that snowy conditions. We managed to cover it without much headache. Few people were too fast on snow, while others were the opposite of that. Finally, microspikes came into use. There were many steep patches which itself was a task to negotiate, but we managed somehow.
We reached at 2 pm. It was a task to beat the soft snow of 2ft, so that our tent could easily be pitched on hard snow. That day, one porter suffered from Hypothermia and he went mute. He was shifted to the kitchen tent as soon as the tent was ready and was made to rest near the cooking stove for the warmth. We gave him the warmee self-heating pouch. He felt okay later after gulping hot soup and hot water. So white-out conditions, freezing wind, Porter’s health, Highest Camp at 5100m, wet sleeping bags, frozen tents, snow melted “yuckk” water, etc. made it totally worth.

You climb up and again you go down several times. That was really hectic to be frank. [Lamkhaga pass expedition 2015]
You climb up and again you go down several times. That was really hectic to be frank.
going down.. [Lamkhaga pass expedition]
going down…..
Climbing up.. Sonu mending Rashmi's shoe[Lamkhaga pass expedition]
Climbing up.. Sonu mending Rashmi’s shoe
Lamkhaga traverse [Lamkhaga pass expedition 2015]
Lamkhaga traverse
Chotkhaga Pass (left) - Unnamed pass(middle)- Lamkhaga Ridge Pass(Right) Lamkhaga cannot be seen untill you reach its base, its so remote. [Lamkhaga pass expedition 2015]
Chotkhaga Pass (left) – Unnamed pass(middle)- Lamkhaga Ridge Pass(Right)
Lamkhaga cannot be seen untill you reach its base, its so remote.
Near the advance base camp [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Near the advance base camp

TREK DAY – 6 (LAMKHAGA PASS)

Plan: Advance Base camp to Lamkhaga Pass to Lamkhaga base camp( Harsil side)
What did we do? : Advance Base camp to Lamkhaga Pass to Lamkhaga base camp(Harsil side) to Kyarkoti

When we woke up at 6 in the morning, it was all white-out outside. Soon, we started discussing on to pass the cross or not. After a lot of arguments, we planned to go ahead. Waiting back did not make any sense. Descending to Chitkul was against our wishes. It was just a matter of 3 hours of the climb to the pass and it descended all the way down to Kyarkoti – Gangnani – Harsil. If anything worse happens within these 3 hours, nobody had an idea to escape it, except our guide Negi. He was confident about it and he leads us in a Pro way. We stood at the top at 9:00 am on 3rd June.

Looking towards HP unnamed peaks as seen from Abc at 5120m at 530am. [Lamkhaga pass expedition 2015]Looking towards HP unnamed peaks as seen from Abc at 5120m at 530am.

P5810m [Lamkhaga pass expedition 2015]
P5810m
Pitching the tent in raging snow storm [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
Pitching the tent in raging snow storm
After 7am, shot from Digicam. [Lamkhaga pass expedition 2015]
After 7am, shot from Digicam.
Chotkhaga Hidden behind. [Lamkhaga pass expedition 2015]
Chotkhaga Hidden behind.
Walking towards the pass [Lamkhaga trek expedition 2015]
Walking towards the pass
Lamkhaga glacier [Lamkhaga pass expedition 2015]
Lamkhaga glacier
The traverse [Lamkhaga pass trek expedition 2015]
The Lamkhaga traverse
The glacier [Lamhaga pass trek]
The glacier
View of Kinnaur - Garhwal range [Lamkhaga pass trek 2015]
View of Kinnaur – Garhwal range
Unnamed peak on Kinnaur - Garhwal range [Lamkhaga pass trek]
Unnamed peak on Kinnaur – Garhwal range
If you see exactly in the middle, there is a cornice. That is gateway to Harsil [Lamkhaga pass trek 2015]
If you see exactly in the middle, there is a cornice. That is the gateway to Harsil

Negi ji had made a zigzag route to the top, due to soft snow and the light was bright. In a meanwhile, a huge layer of ice like a mini avalanche came on our way and took Aditya down a few meters on the slope. Luckily he arrested himself on the gentle slopes and began climbing much faster. It was a horrifying scene when it happened. Somehow we all reached at 9 am on the top.

The pass is located at one of the greatest water source region which divides two great rivers, where one flows into the Arabian sea and other in Bay of Bengal.
All we could see is tears of joy in each and every member. It started snowing heavily from the Garhwal side and it was bright in the Kinnaur side. Realising, who was the culprit behind bad weather, we started our deadly descend soon.

Unnamed Kinnaur peaks, some slightly above 6000m. You can see our kitchen tent(peach color) to the left hand side down. [Lamkhaga pass trek]
Unnamed Kinnaur peaks, some slightly above 6000m. You can see our kitchen tent(peach color) to the left-hand side down.
Sonu negi opening the route [Lamkhaga pass trek]
Sonu negi opening the route
Looking up to the pass [Lamkhaga pass trek]
Looking up to the pass
Small avalanche [Lamkhaga pass trek]
Small avalanche
This is how the border looks at 5285m, A thin wall between Kinnaur-Garhwal - LAMKHAGA PASS
This is how the border looks at 5285m, A thin wall between Kinnaur-Garhwal – LAMKHAGA PASS
Waiting for rest of the team [Lamkhaga pass trek]
Waiting for the rest of the team
Tiding the prayer flags on Lamkhaga pass [Lamkhaga pass trek 2015]
Trek leader Sonu Negi tiding the prayer flags on Lamkhaga pass
“We don't live to eat and make money. We eat and make money to be able to enjoy life. That is what life means, and that is what life is for.” ―George Mallory [Lamkhaga pass trek]
“We don’t live to eat and make money. We eat and make money to be able to enjoy life. That is what life means, and that is what life is for.”
―George Mallory
Welcome to the land of gods- Devbhoomi and huge snowfield looking towards Garhwal side. [Lamkhaga pass trek]
Welcome to the land of gods- Devbhoomi and huge snowfield looking towards Garhwal side.

The glissading was fun and risky too. Few members had many rolls, with the bags falling on one side and trekking poles to the others. The weather deteriorated and it was white out. This time, it did not stop for the next 8 hours of daunting descent. There was a huge gap of distance among members, a few of us were climbing down slowly with INFINITE no. of falls and breaking trekking sticks. The plan was to descend until the snowline. We reached Upper Kyarkoti, passing through Sukha Tal at 5:30 pm and threw our bags aside our tents.

Descending down the pass [Lamkhaga pass trek]
Descending down the pass
Glissading the slope [Lamkhaga pass trek]
Glissading the slope
Glissading the slope [Lamkhaga pass trek]
I hope the readers here can make out, what we faced.
Lamkhaga pass trek
Waiting for the storm to subside
Upper Kyarkoti(Jalandhari Gad valley ~~~4000mtr) [ Lamkhaga pass trek ]
The end of snow line at Upper Kyarkoti(Jalandhari Gad valley ~~~4000mtr)
Glissading the slope [Lamkhaga pass trek]
Glisadding down the slope
Glissading the slope [Lamkhaga pass trek]
Camping at Kyarkoti [Lamkhaga pass trek]
Camping at Kyarkoti

That evening, our porters went hunting some of the juniper bushes/woods for a bonfire. They excelled in getting a large bunch of wet junipers and some wet trunk of the unknown tree which was lying down on high slopes. There was an excitement within the team on the accomplishment of the trek. We sipped many teas that evening, as most of the things were wet and ferocious bonfire by the side.
I was the last one to sleep after taking a few night shots of heaven, Kyarkoti. In fact, all the nights at every camp have been beautiful for us, but this place beats all. As soon as I entered my sleeping and locked the chains of the tent, there was a scratching sound outside the tent. As if, someone/thing is scratching with hands on the outer layer of the tent. Initially, I thought someone was doing mischief among us, but everyone had slept by that time. I woke up and I switched on my tent light, no sounds! Again, I did not bother to wake up my tent mates as they all were snoring too loud. The sound of scratching continued for 2-3 hours that night and that was my last sleepless night of the entire journey.

This has to be best alpine tents (though bit heavy) on high altitudes. [Lamkhaga pass trek]
This has to be best alpine tents (though bit heavy) on high altitudes.
Definition of Relaxation is this! [Lamkhaga pass trek]
Definition of Relaxation is this!
Burning juniper shrubs [Lamkhaga pass trek]
Burning juniper shrubs
This is a shortcut to Chotkhaga Pass but very technical. NO! you actually cant see the Chotkhaga Ridge from here but this is the route.[Lamkhaga pass trek]
This is a shortcut to Chotkhaga Pass but very technical. NO! you actually cant see the Chotkhaga Ridge from here but this is the route.
It was full moon, my 18-55mm lens could only do this much. [Lamkhaga pass trek]
It was a full moon, my 18-55mm lens could only do this much.

A blog by Rohit Bhat

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Blog Homestay Kalpa Winter in Kinnaur

Kalpa & Charang Snow Hikes | Winter in Kinnaur

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After a long delay, finally posting pics of our winter trip to Kalpa, Charang Village & the Charang Rangrik Monastery. Charang village is the last village on the Indo-China Border. The last ITBP post is located in this village.

Winter in Kinnaur 

For the city folks, the village offers a complete escape from the busy city life. No network coverage — bosses can’t call you. For a comfort trip seeker, I will recommend Charang only during summers. In winters, with the temperature plunging to about -15 ºC & heavy snowfall blocking all the roadways for weeks — the place is either for the brave hearts or for ignorants like us. 

Hikes around Chini village of Kalpa valley

We reached Reckong Peo early in the morning and headed for a beautiful Chini village in Kalpa. We strolled there for an hour or two and visited Kalpa Buddhist monastery and newly built Narayanas temple. We spent the rest of the day at a friend’s place in Reckong Peo and took rest after 12 hrs enduring journey in the Chandigarh-Reckong Peo HRTC bus.

View of Snow covered Pangi village from Kalpa village of Kinnaur
View of Snow covered Pangi village from Kalpa
Unnamed peak on Kinner - Kailash mountain range[Winter in Kinnaur]
Unnamed peak on Kinner – Kailash mountain range
Newly renovated Kalpa Narayanas temple
Newly renovated Kalpa Narayanas temple
View of the valley , Kalpa , Kinnaur
View of the Kalpa valley Kinnaur
Roof of the Kalpa temple & Kinnaur Kailash peak (6050 m) in background
Roof of the Kalpa temple & Kinner Kailash peak (6050 m) in background
Snow covered Chini village of Kalpa in Kinnaur
Chini village of Kalpa, Kinnaur
Chini temple of Kalpa in Kinnaur
Chini temple Of Kalpa, Kinnaur
Unnamed peak on Kinner Kailash mountain range
Unnamed peak on Kinner Kailash mountain range
Snowy mountain tops above Barang village in Kinnaur
Snowy mountain tops above Barang village of Kinnaur
Jorkanden peak & adjoining peaks on Kinner Kailash Mountain range
Jorkanden peak and adjoining peaks on Kinner Kailash Mountain range
Hiking in deep snow near Kalpa football ground in Kinnaur
Hiking to Kalpa football ground, Kinnaur
Snowball fighting on Kalpa football ground in Kinnaur
Snowball fighting in Kalpa football ground of Kinnaur
Winter landscape of Chini village of Kalpa in Kinnaur
Magnificent Chini village of Kalpa, Kinnaur
Raldang peak overlooking Chini village of Kalpa.
Chini village Kalpa , Raldang peak (5425 m) visible in background
Snow covered fields of locals from Chini village of Kalpa
Snow covered fields of locals from Chini village of Kalpa
Hiking on snow near Kalpa football ground in Kinnaur
Snow hikes near Kalpa football ground of Kinnaur
Snowy Raldang peak of Kinner - Kailash mountain range in Kinnaur
Raldang peak (5425 m ) of Kinner – Kailash mountain range, Kinnaur
Icy road en route Kalpa village of  Kinnaur
Road to Kalpa valley of Kinnaur
Strolling in snow in Kalpa football ground
Strolling around Kalpa
Snowballing in Kalpa football ground of Kinnaur
Snowballing and Killing time in Kalpa valley of Kinnaur

Reckong Peo to Akpa Check post bus ride & Long walks along the NH-05

Now coming to our next day’s experience I consider this as an achievement. Trekking on steep slopes for 20 km on snow for 8 hrs continuously. With no one to your rescue walking endlessly with those baby steps on snow…having no idea that we will be alive in the next 1 hr or not. We missed the early morning Reckong Peo – Thangi bus and had to take another bus which dropped us near Akpa check post around noon. We started walking along the highway, reached Moorang around 1 PM and took a taxi to Lambar ( the last motorable stop) in winters.  

National Higway 5 en route Moorang village of Kinnaur
World’s most treacherous road, National Higway 05, en route Moorang, Kinnaur
Walking on NH 5 near Moorang village of Kinnaur
Walking the Himalayas , near Moorang bridge , Kinnaur
Moorang village of Kinnaur
Village with a buddhist monastery & many chorten – Moorang
Slippery road near Moorang village of Kinnaur on NH 05
Slippery road near Moorang on National Highaway 05
A bridge on Satluj river connecting
Moorang bridge , Tidong valley , Kinnaur

Moorang bridge, Tidong valley, Kinnaur

Moorang to Thangi village taxi ride & the long hike to Charang village

We started the trek from Lambar at around 3 PM and reached Charang at about 11 pm. In the 20 km stretch, there were only three of us walking continuously. Because in that extreme weather a comma means full stop. If you stop you will freeze within minutes. At about 5 pm there was complete darkness…and even a slight sound nearby will flash images of a snow leopard or wild bears in your mind. Trekking in the night without a torch..the only thing to our rescue was the moonlight and the marks of the steps of the ITBP jawans on the snow…which kept us hopeful that we are heading in the right direction. Each one of us was having plenty of dry fruits but none of us was having the energy to stop & take those out of the bag. We were three friends Pawan Ranta, Amandeep Dhiman & myself. There is one ITBP post on the way to Charang which served as a base camp to the post at Charang. Thereafter traveling for about 14 km we got some warm water to drink. That warm water was like ‘amrit‘ and we thought that “ab hum bach jayyenge“. We stayed there for 15 to 20 minutes & then about 8 pm we started our trek to Charang with new hope & determination…but then again after traveling for about 1 km, we were regretting that why we didn’t stop there & request those ITBP jawans to allow us to stay there till morning. Now again, we were at the mercy of the mountains. We were not able to even speak….we were just moving & moving. During the complete trek, I was reciting God’s name and was hurling abuses & curses at Pawan who gave the idea of that trek. After traveling for another 6 km, there in the dark near the entrance of the Charang Village, were Sonu bhai, our savior standing there in the dark waiting for us. Sonu bhai took our backpacks and gave us new hope. And again we said ” Ab to lagata hai bach gaye“. Sonu bhai offered us shelter in their house offered food & saved our lives.  Raante credit goes to you also. We sat near the bukhara and ate food thanking God for keeping us alive. I started chanting my daily mantras thanking God.

The trails to Charang , Kinnaur [Winter in Kinnaur 2015]
The trails to Charang, Kinnaur [Winter 2015]
In Charang , Kinnaur [Winter in Kinnaur 2015]

In Charang, Kinnaur [Winter 2015]View of last ITBP check post and Rangrik Tungma monastery , Kinnaur [Winter in Kinnaur 2015]

View of last ITBP check post and Rangrik Tungma monastery , Kinnaur [Winter 2015]Halting place , en route Rangrik Tungma monastery , Charang Kinnaur [Winter in Kinnaur 2015]

Halting place, en route Rangrik Tungma monastery, Charang Kinnaur [Winter 2015]Waiting for the sunshine , Charang Kinnaur [Winter in Kinnaur 2015]

Waiting for the sunshine, Charang Kinnaur [Winter 2015]Trail to Rangrik Tungma monastery , Charang , Kinnaur [Winter in Kinnaur 2015]

The trail to Rangrik Tungma monastery, Charang, Kinnaur [Winter 2015]Charang village , Tidong valley , Kinnaur [Winter in Kinnaur 2015]

Charang village , Tidong valley , KinnaurHiking to Rangrik Tungma Monastery , Charang [Winter in Kinnaur 2015]

Hiking to Rangrik Tungma Monastery , Charang [Winter 2015]Dogs in Charang , Kinnaur [Winter in Kinnaur 2015]

Dogs in Charang , KinnaurPrayer flags in Rangrik Tungma monastery , Charang , Kinnaur [Winter in Kinnaur 2015]

Prayer flags in Rangrik Tungma monastery , Charang , Kinnaur [Winter 2015]Chorten , a Buddhist stupa , Charang Kinnaur [Winter in Kinnaur 2015]

Chorten , a Buddhist stupa , Charang Kinnaur [Winter 2015]Charang snowscape , Kinnaur [Winter in Kinnaur 2015]

Charang snowscape , Kinnaur [Winter 2015]Prayer flags , Charang , Kinnaur [Winter in Kinnaur 2015]

Prayer flags , Charang , Kinnaur [Winter 2015]Searching for network in Charang , Kinnaur[Winter in Kinnaur 2015]

Searching for network in Charang , Kinnaur

The next dawn gave us a new hope & we visited the Rangrik Monastery and offered prayers and visited the last ITBP post on the Indo China border.

Walking with the wind , returning from Charang , Kinnaur [Winter in Kinnaur 2015]
Walking with the wind, returning from Charang, Kinnaur [Winter 2015]
Singing stream , Tidong [Winter in Kinnaur 2015]

Singing stream, Tidong [Winter Kinnaur 2015]Walking along Tidong stream while returning back from Charang , Kinnaur [winter 2015]

Walking along Tidong stream while returning from Charang, Kinnaur [winter 2015]

Oh! I have written such a long story…I know many of you won’t read but I know that many more will read. The story is to keep my memories on records.

Blog by: Saurabh Tiwari

Categories
Blog Chitkul village Kinnaur Sangla valley Trekking

Baspa Valley Kinnaur: Valley Of Brimming Beauty

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In the western Himalayas, bordering along with Tibet and Garhwal, the Baspa valleyalso called Sangla valley—of Kinnaur has been open to visitors since the early 90s. The valley got its name from the Baspa river which originates from Chung Sakhago pass and meanders for around 30 km before meeting Satluj on its left bank near Karcham.

Baspa valley, Kinnaur:

Unlike the Spiti valley and Hangrang region of Kinnaur, the Baspa valley is green paradise in largely barren mountains. Baspa valley or Sangla valley is known for fruit-laden orchards, cedar covered slopes and flower crusted meadows. Bhojpatra tree is abundantly found in the Chitkul region.

A land of blue skies, buzzing Baspa river, soaring peaks, deep valleys, apple orchards, and syncretic culture — Baspa valley a place for people who are seeking genuine peace and soul-calming solitude far, far from the madding crowd.

The fort of Kamru is another landmark in Baspa valley. As Gandhi once remarked that ‘the soul of India lies in its villages’— villages like Chitkul, Rackcham, Sangla, Kamru and Chansu are the soul of Baspa valley.

Rackcham village , Baspa valley , Kinnaur
Rendezvous with Rackcham
Monsoon in Baspa valley Kinnaur
Rain clouds brewing — Monsoon in Baspa valley
Baspa valley Kinnaur — Monsoon in Kinnaur
Wandering clouds descending over the valley
Snowy mountain tops of Baspa valley Kinnaur
Early spring in Baspa valley…Snowy mountain tops
Snowy mountain tops of Baspa valley Kinnaur
Snowy mountain tops of Baspa valley Kinnaur, clicked in early spring season
Rackcham , Baspa valley , Kinnaur
Rendezvous with Rackcham
Rackcham region - Baspa valley Kinnaur
Rakcham region – Baspa valley Kinnaur. Early spring in Baspa valley
Shallow waters of Baspa river and Snowscapes of Chitkul. Clicked in later March.
Chitkul Snow landscapes , Spring 2017 [Winter - Early spring season ]
Snowscapes of Chitkul. Clicked in later March ( Upper Baspa Valley)
Spring in Kinnaur , Baspa valley , Sangla
Snowscapes of Sangla. Clicked in late March [ Spring in Kinnaur ]
Dried apple chips , Sangla , Baspa valley , Kinnaur
Apple chips. Apples are cut into pieces and spread over the slate roof or any sunny place. They get crispy after some time and eaten during wintertime. They are as nutritious as a fresh apple.
Folk music percussion instrument Baspa valley, Kinnaur. They are called a variety of names depending upon their sizes like Dhol, Dholku, Dolki, and Nagara. The skin of goat or sheep is used to make these instruments.
Kamru fort , Baspa valley , Kinnaur
Kamru fort, Baspa valley
Slate roof house built in Kath khuni architecture , Kamru , Baspa valley, Kinnaur
Slate roof house built in Kath khuni architecture, Kamru, Baspa valley.
Carvings on wooden window , en route Kamru , Baspa valley , Kinnaur
Carvings on a wooden window, en route Kamru
Beautiful Carvings on a metal door , Kamru fort compound , Baspa valley , Kinnaur
Beautiful Carvings on a metal door, Kamru fort compound
Brass door handle of Kamru fort entrance , Baspa valley , Kinnaur
Brass door handle of Kamru fort entrance
Inside Kamru fort complex , Baspa valley , Kinnaur
Inside Kamru fort complex
Intricate design on wooden door , Kamru fort complex , Baspa valley , Kinnaur
Intricate design on a wooden door, Kamru fort complex
Brass sculpture , Kamru fort complex , Baspa valley , Kinnaur
Brass sculpture, Kamru fort complex
Old house , en route Kamru fort , Baspa valley , Kinnaur
Old house, en route Kamru fort
getting up early was worth it , Sunrise from Thola peak Chitkul , Baspa Valley
Getting up early was worth it. Sunrise from Thola peak at Chitkul, Baspa Valley
Livestock feed ( dried grass ) hanged on tree to dry and later stored for use during winter season. Chitkul , Baspa valley
Livestock feed ( dried grass ) hanged on a tree to dry and later stored for use during the winter season.
Azure waters of Baspa river , Chitkul , Kinnaur
Azure waters of Baspa river, Chitkul [Autumn season: Clicked in October
Nagasti ITBP camp , Chitkul , Baspa valley
Nagasti ITBP camp, Chitkul[Autumn season: Clicked in October
Ruminating by the river , Chitkul , Baspa valley , Kinnaur
Ruminating by the river, Chitkul[Autumn season: Clicked in October.
Strolling around Chitkul , Baspa valley , Kinnaur
Strolling around Chitkul in Autumn season

The lush green valley, snow-capped mountains of Kinnaur-Garhwal region and melodically flowing Baspa river are the hallmark of Baspa valley. There are many trekking routes that lead to or end up in the Baspa Valley. Some of the prominent ones are the following.

Treks in Baspa valley

1. Lamkhaga pass trek.

It is a fairly remote trek and is now regarded as the classic route from Gangotri to Kinnaur, which was first crossed by Marco Pallis in 1933. The trek is also known as  Chitkul to Gangotri trek or Harsil to Chitkul trek. It trek can be done from either side. The beautiful route takes you through some of the most remote areas of Uttarakhand and Himachal Pradesh, like the Jalandhari valley that is covered with flowers post monsoon. The snow in the early season could impede your progress. Harsil is famous for Wilson’s Cottage built in 1864. Gangotri is a short drive from Harsil, while Chitkul is the last village in the Baspa valley

2. Borasu pass trek

Borasu Pass at a height of 5450 meters (17880 feet) above sea level is a high mountain pass connecting the Indian states of Uttarakhand and Himachal Pradesh and is located at the border of the two states. This trek goes through the famous Har-ki-Dun valley and we witness the beautiful glacial lakes of Morinda Taal and Zhupkia Glacier. The trail for this trek passes through a glacier, narrow ridges, vertical show slopes, meadows, and boulders. Overall a very adventurous experience not to mention the unforgettable views of the mountains.

3. Buran Ghati trek

It is an old Sheppard route that connects Brua village of Baspa valley to Janglikh village of Pabbar valley, Rohru.

4. Kinner Kailash Parikrama ( Charang – La )

Mount Kinner Kailash is located in Kinnaur in Himachal Pradesh. The trail provides a panoramic view of the whole range of Kinner Kailash mountain peaks. This region is located on the Indo-Tibet border and gives a wonderful introduction to the confluence of Hinduism and Buddhism. The landscape of the area varies from the lush green scenic valley of Sangla Valley to the snow-clad mountains of the Kinner ranges. This trek is packed not only with some of the best views of the mountains but also provides an insight into the rich history of trade, religion, and diverse ethnic groups, the experience of which leaves one enchanted.

5. Khimloga pass trek

It is a trade route mostly frequented by Sheppard from either side of Baspa of Supin valley of Uttrakhand.

6. Rupin pass trek

Rupin Pass is a high altitude pass across the Himalaya mountain range in the state of Himachal Pradesh. It lies on a traditional shepherd and hiking route which starts from Dhaula in Uttarakhand and ends in Sangla in Himachal Pradesh. The path itself is located across mostly uninhabited areas in the Himalayan ranges at an elevation of 15,250 ft (4,650M) above sea level

7. Yamrang la pass (5570 m) & Gugairang La

These two passes connect Baspa valley to Tibet.

Easy to moderate trails in Baspa valley:

1. Karcham to Barua

Karcham is a small town on National Highway 5 at the confluence of the Satluj and Baspa river. The trail passes through Sapni village (Visit to snake god temple is recommended) and ends up a Brua Village.

2.Brua to Chansu trail

After a gradual descend one needs to negotiate Brua Nallah and then Climb up to Chansu village.

3. Sangla to Kamru fort trail

Kamru village was the capital of the erstwhile principality of Bushahr. The Kamru Fort, a 15-minute walk from the Sangla town, houses quintessential wood-and-stone buildings with curved, peaked roofs. On the way up is the Badrinath Temple, a classic example of Kinnauri religious syncretism with both Hindu and Buddhist shrines. There are several folklores associated with it and according to one legend, there are crores of devi- devta residing inside the fort.  Entry inside the fort is restricted – only into the courtyard in front of it – but the views of the surrounding mountains are good, anyway.

Sangla Village

Sangla serves as a base to hike to nearby villages like  Kamru, Batseri, Rackham, and Chitkul.  It offers an uninhibited rendezvous with nature — walks, treks and strolling in narrow alleys of Himalayan hamlets, lively bonfires by the river. If you’re an angling enthusiast, the swirling current of the Baspa is home to both the Rainbow and Brown Trout.

Blog by Pawan Ranta

Categories
Homestay

Cherring’s homestay , Kibber

Cherring’s Homestay is located in Kibber village of the Spiti Valley. It has traditional Spitian home decor and furnishing. Rooms are spacious and have good natural lighting.

The fireplace , Cherring homestay , Kibber
Bedroom , Cherring homestay , Kibber

To book a room at Cherring’s homestay please visit Airbnb link.
[ratings]

Categories
Blog Kalpa Winter in Kinnaur

Chaka Meadows Hike – The Kalpa Trek

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Chaka meadows are mountain meadows high above Kalpa village of Kinnaur. It is a hike recommended for the ones in tireless twenties who have just started their trekking journey or for the people ones in late forties a time when knees begin to protest against the gradient and you start appreciating the least challenging of the mountain trails.

Wild himalayan flowers. Enroute Chaka meadows , Kalpa , Kinnaur
Hidden deep beneath the winter snow, mountain flowers begin to grow. Who will wake when lilies bloom? Who will appear when spring is finally here? Wild Himalayan flowers. Enroute Chaka meadows

Kalpa To Chaka Trek

The Chaka(also spelled as Chakka) is the quintessential Himalayan mountain meadow — some people call it Chaka peak but there is no peak as such — located at an altitude of around 3800m above sea level.

The route

The trails start from a point on Kalpa Roghi road near charming Kalpa (Chini village) which is around 10 km from district headquarter, Reckong Peo.  One doesn’t need any prior trekking experience but a sound pair of lungs. I would say it’s a modest trek with great returns. The hike is steep though. We started hiking from a trail near the hotel Rakpa Regency which leads to Chaka Meadows. Early morning start is advised because it gets quite arduous when the sun starts hitting on the face and suddenly you start feeling the backpack load.

Wild flower enroute Chaka meadows , Kalpa , Kinnaur
Wildflower en route Chaka meadows

A good trek is not measured just by the physical coordinates of cool heights attained and scenic ridges traversed. Perhaps more crucial is the inner satisfaction that derives from walking with companions who stay agreeable under testing conditions and whose sympathies remain as a warm afterglow. The marvelous sunrise from the Kinner Kailash mountain, breathtaking views of the mountain range and beautiful views of Kalpa village are major highlights of the hike.

Sitting by the stream , en route Chaka meadows , Kalpa , Kinnaur
Sitting by the stream, en route Chaka meadows
Chaka meadows , Kalpa , Kinnaur
Chaka meadows, Kalpa
Wild flower enroute Chaka meadows , Kalpa , Kinnaur,
Wild flower enroute Chaka meadows
Traditional house , enroute Chaka meadows , Kalpa , kinnaur
The vintage home. It is a storehouse used in summers only during the sowing season. In winter people descend to their homes in Chini village.

Distance from Kalpa

The trail is around 3 kilometers long and it runs along a stream. It passes through fields of Chini villagers and Cedar forest below the meadows.  It’s a day hike and one can comfortably descend back to the Kalpa – Roghi road in the evening.

Small foot bridge , En route Chaka meadows , Kalpa , Kinnaur
A small footbridge , En route Chaka meadows

Chaka-Kalpa Trek During Winter

Winter offers some of the prettiest, most serene trail adventures you can ever hope to have. Cleary sky, little or no crowd and snow-laden peaks are some of the perks that come with a winter hike.  Unlike in summers when you need to start early in the morning, one can start to hike in late morning in winters.  Hiking in winters has its inherent dangers. So one is advised to carry good gear and dress in layers.

Views from Chaka meadwos , Kalpa , Kinnaur
Views from Chaka meadows
Raldang peak framed! Enroute Chaka meadows trek , Kalpa , Kinnaur
Framing Raldang peak
Hiking along the stream, Chaka meadows trek, Kalpa , Kinnaur
Hiking along the stream
Frozen stream , en route Chaka meadows trek
Frozen in time and space
Chaka meadows Kalpa | Kinnaur in winters
Snow covered fields of Chaka meadows. These fields remain under the snow for 4-5 months. In summers people of Chini and surrounding villages of Kalpa climb up to their fields in Chaka Kanda and live here for 2-3 months. Imagine working in these fields in such beautiful surroundings.
Ice covered stream | Chaka meadows Kalpa | Winter in Kinnaur
Ice-covered stream
Walking besides the singing stream | Chaka meadows Kalpa | Winter in Kinnaur
Walking beside the singing stream
Winter snowscape , en route Chaka medows Kalpa | Winter in Kinnaur
Winter snowscape, en route Chaka meadows Kalpa
Chaka meadows trail , Kalpa | Winter in Kinnaur
There is no other trail that has such amazing views of the Kinnaur Kailash mountain range.
Chaka meadows trail, Kalpa
Chaka meadows hike, Kalpa | Winter in Kinnaur
Lost in thought and lost in time
While the seeds of life and the seeds of change were planted
Outside the rain fell dark and slow
While I pondered on this dangerous but irresistible pastime
I took a heavenly ride through our silence
I knew the moment had arrived
For killing the past and coming back to life
Her majesty , Mt Raldang (5499m) | Chaka meadows hike Kalpa | Winter in Kinnaur
Her majesty , Mt Raldang (5499m)
Singing stream. Chaka meadows hike Kalpa. | Winter in Kinnaur
“Sometimes you have to turn back and follow your own footprints to find the right path!”

Blog by Pawan Ranta

Categories
Auden's Col Blog Garhwal Mountaineering Trekking

Auden’s Col Trek : Via Khatling Glacier & Mayali Pass

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Auden’s Col is a pass in the Gangotri Group of mountains that connects Jogin I (6465m) and Gangotri III (6580m) and is reportedly situated at an altitude of around 5400m. It also binds two glaciers on the opposite sides. One is Khatling glacier and the other one looks like the glacier belonging to Jogin I.

Auden’s Col Trek Expedition: A photoblog

Auden’s Col is approachable from Gangotri and one can trek up to Kedarnath following Auden’s Col and Khatling glacier. The pass is named after John Bicknell Auden of the Geological Survey of India, who first discovered it in 1935 and crossed it in 1939. Mr. Harish Kapadia and Mr. Romesh Bhattacharjee from the Himalayan Club repeated Auden’s explorations in the late eighties.

Normally pass and the Khatling glacier is heavily infested with crevasses. However, we crossed the pass in early June and encountered few crevasses due to heavy snow cover. To read more about the expedition, please read this blog written by Neelima Vallangi on National Geographic Traveler. Sridevi Nair has also written a brief account of Auden’s col trek expedition 2018

In between the Gangotri III and Jogin I, lies this amazingly beautiful pass which hides the crevasse-ridden Khatling glacier on its other side that one requires to cross while getting down. We crossed this as a part of tri-pass-route (Patangani Dhar-Auden’s Col-Mayali Pass).

 Expedition’s highlights

  • Auden: John Bicknell Auden, brother of the famous poet Auden, was a Geographical Survey officer. He discovered the Col in 1935 and finally crossed it in 1939.
  • Col: the lowest point of a ridge or saddle between two peaks, typically providing a pass from one side of a mountain range to another.
  • Auden’s Col is one of the toughest and most challenging treks in the western Himalayas and definitely the most treacherous pass in the Garhwal Himalayas.
  • It’s not a popular trek due to its level of difficulty.
  • The Col is at a height of 5490 m – 18,000 feet. (That’s high).
  • The terrain is strenuous and the trail passes through moraines, narrow cliffs, Boulders, and difficult ridges.
  • The pass links two glaciers on the opposite sides, viz Khatling glacier and Jogin I glacier. The pass and the Khatling glacier are heavily infested with crevasses.

Gangotri to Auden’s col via Patangini Dhar

Sudershan Parvat, Garhwal Himalayas
Sudershan Parvat
A male Bharal ( Himalayan blue sheep )
A male Bharal (Himalayan blue sheep)
The sun sets over Mandakini range
The sun sets over Mandakini range
Kedar Tal ( Gangotri National Park )
Onwards to Kedar Tal (Gangotri National Park)

Kedartal lake

It is a snow-fed lake surrounded by Thalay Sagar (6,904m), Meru (6,672m), Bhrigupanth (6,772m) and other Gangotri group of peaks, and is the source of Kedar Ganga, which in Hindu mythology is considered to be Shiva’s contribution to Bhagirathi. Kedartal is 17 km from Gangotri. The route involves a steep rocky climb along the narrow Kedar Ganga gorge for 8 Km to Bhojkharak. From there it is 4km to the next available flat area for camping at Kedarkharak, and a further 5 km to Kedartal. The route passes through scenic Himalayan birch forests but is made hazardous in places by falling rocks, high altitude, and segments of steep ascent. Kedar Ganga originates from Kedartal and meets the Ganges in Gangotri.

Bhrigupanth - Thalay Sagar - Jogin towering over Kedar Tal
Bhrigupanth – Thalay Sagar – Jogin towering over Kedar Tal
Mandakini peak [ Gangotri National Park ]

Mandakini peak [ Gangotri National Park ]

Thalay Sagar peak (6904m) [ Gangotri National Park ]
Thalay Sagar peak (6904m) [ Gangotri National Park ]
Thalay Sagar peak (6904m) [ Gangotri National Park ]
Thalay Sagar peak (6904m) [ Gangotri National Park ]
Bhrigupanth and Thalay Sagar [ Gangotri National Park ]
Bhrigupanth and Thalay Sagar [ Gangotri National Park ]
Kedartal lake [Thalaysagar peak visible in the background] - Auden's col trek
Kedartal lake [Thalaysagar peak visible in the background]

Auden’s col to Kedarnath via Khatling Glacier & Mayali pass

After crossing Auden’s col, there are two exit options. The first one is to exit through Masar Tal – Mayali pass – Vasuki  Tal to Kedarnath. The other is to exit through the trek route which is from Tambakund, Kharsoli, Gangi to Village Guttu. Village Guttu is a day’s journey from Haridwar or Rishikesh.

Climbing Auden's col [The three passes trek Auden's col - Mayali pass - Patangini Dhar]
Climbing Auden’s col
The Auden's col blog
The Auden’s col
Huge icefalls near Khatling Glacier [Auden's col trek]
Huge icefalls near Khatling Glacier
Auden's col snowfield
Climbing Auden’s col
Sheer vastness of the Khatling Glacier [Auden's col trek]
The Sheer vastness of the Khatling Glacier
Mayali Glacier
Tiny humans on Mayali Glacier
Descending Mayali Glacier
Descending Mayali Glacier
Masar top, Enroute Mayali pass [Auden's col trek]
Masar top, Enroute Mayali pass
Most beautiful minefield - Khatling glacier | Auden's col
Known for its notoriety as being highly crevasse infested and taking a couple of days to cross after getting down the treacherous Auden’s Col (5300m). Doing it in June, somehow we got exceptional weather and totally snow-covered glacier which meant we couldn’t know where the crevasses were (those are fully visible in post monsoons). We just followed our local guide’s footsteps and crossed it in 4-5 hours straight. Khatling Glacier, Uttrakhand. June’17
Mayali Glacier below Mayali pass | Auden's col trek
Mayali Pass, Uttrakhand, June 2017

Our guide told us that he had come here three times before. The first time when he came 10-12 years back the glacier used to start right away from the point where you see us standing (in this pic) till it joined the surrounding mountains. But now it has receded as much as the black line you can see somewhat in the middle. It has left a glacial pool (uncrossable as it breaks) which makes the crossing much difficult as one needs to skirt across the moraine field on the right hugging the slopes and then join the glacier after it receded point.
Maybe with the rate of global warming, this glacier might only be in photos over the next 10-12 years.

Auden’s Col Trek Itinerary:

  • Day 0: Reached Gangotri (2940m), acclimatization day, visit the temple
  • Day #1: Trekked to Bhoj Kharak (3415m)
  • Day #2: Trekked to Kedar Kharak (4315m)
  • Day #3: Trekked to Kedar Tal (4760m) and back to Kedar Kharak
  • Day #4: Trekked to Patangini Dhar base campsite (4540m)
  • Day #5: Crossed Patangini Dhar (5085m) and reached Dhabba Camp Site (4685m) in Rudugaira valley
  • Day #6: Trekked to Rudugaira / Auden’s Col Advanced Base Camp (4975m)
  • Day #7: Crossed Auden’s Col (5490m), trekked on Khatling and reached Khatling campsite (4970m)
  • Day #8: Trekked rest of the Khatling, crossed waterfall area (4300m) and reached Khatling Base camp (3765m)
  • Day #9: Crossed Bhilangna river (3480m), and reached Chowki campsite (3630m)
  • Day #10: Trekked to Masar Tal (4550m)
  • Day #11: Trekked to Masar Top (4695m), Crossed Mayali Pass (4990m) and camp (4335m) near Vasuki Tal
  • Day 12: Trekked Vasuki Tal (4210m), trek to Vasuki Top (4480m), and descended to Kedarnath (3530m)
Auden's Col & Mayali pass trek route map
Auden’s Col & Mayali pass trek map

[The three passes trek ] photoblog by Anshul Chaurasia

Categories
Kinnaur Trek Blog Trekking

Pin-Bhabha pass trek

Pin-Bhabha Pass

Bhabha pass is located between the Kinnaur and Pin valley of Spiti region of Himachal Pradesh. From the beginning of the trek to the end, one experiences wildly vivid landscapes, people, languages, and religions.

Pin valley,Spiti to Bhaba valley crossover

Bhabha Pass Trek can be done in either direction, from the Mud village of Spiti and from Kafnu village of Bhabha valley, Kinnaur.  Normally it takes 4-5 days to reach the Mud village under normal weather conditions. Bhabha Pass connects two contrasting valleys of Kinnaur and Spiti. Lush green meadows of Bhabha valley transforms into barren moonscapes of the Pin valley of Spiti region.

Kara lake, Bhaba valley , Kinnaur
Kara lake, Bhaba valley , Kinnaur
Bhabha valley , Kinnaur
Bhabha valley, Kinnaur
enroute Bhabha pass , Bhabha pass trek
En route Bhabha pass, Bhabha pass trek
Crossing Kara stream , enroute Bhabha pass trek
Crossing Kara stream, en route Bhabha pass trek

Highlights Of  Pin Bhabha Trek:

  • Moonscapes of  Spiti valley.
  • Kara stream crossing.
  • Pin river.
  • Mulling Meadows
  • High altitude mountains.

Pin-Bhabha Pass Itinerary:

Day 1: Kafnu to Mulling (2,400 m to 3,200 m)

Approx. Trekking time: 6-7 hours,

Trek gradient:  Easy walk on a moderate slope.

Day 2: Mulling to Kara(3,200 m to 3,500 m)

 Approx. trekking time:  5-6 hours

 Trek gradient: Moderate.

Day 3: Trek from Kara to Phustirang (3,500 m  to 3950 m)

 Approx. trekking time:  4-5 hours

 Trek gradient: Moderate to tough

Day 4: Phutsirang to Mangrungse over Pin Bhaba Pass  (4,107 m  to  4,900 m Bhabha pass  to  4,100 m Mangrungse)

Approx. trekking time:  8-9 hours

 Trek gradient: Difficult.  Ascent to the pass followed by a gradual descent.

Day 5: Trek from Mangrungse to Baldhar (4,100 m to 3850 m)

Approx. trekking time:  3-4 hours

Trek gradient: Moderate

Day 6: Baldhar to Mudh (3850 m to 3700m)

Approx. trekking time:  3-4 hours

Trek gradient: Easy

Getting there:

Kafnu: Kafnu is situated in the Kinnaur district. It is around 201 km from Shimla. Drive on NH 22 from Shimla will take you to Kafnu via Rampur & Wangtoo.

Distance from Shimla to Kafnu: 201 Kms.

Mud village: Mud village is situated in the Spiti valley of Lahaul & Spiti district. First, reach Manali then take a drive to Kaza which is 201 Kms. from Manali. From Kaza, Book sumo & reach Mud village.

Distance from Manali to Kaza: 201 Kms.

Distance from Kaza to Mud village: Around 50 to 60 Kms.