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Blog Homestay Kinnaur Sangla valley

Smitten by Sangla village of Kinnaur

Smitten by Sangla

Visiting Kinnaur and spending some time with the locals was high on my bucket list for a long time. Finally, I got a chance to check out the Chitkul village in Sangla valley before our Lamkhaga Pass trek in May 2017, thanks to the impeccable planning of Gautam Baliga ji. On the 18th of May, Gautam, Aashish and I boarded the only Shimla to Sangla(altitude 2300m) direct bus to reach our destination for the day – the Sangla valley.

Mesmerizing views on the way to Sangla
Mesmerizing views on the way to Sangla

After an 8 to 9-hour journey on the HRTC bus, we reached Sangla at 5 pm. Tucked in the lower Himalayas in the district of Kinnaur, the Sangla valley is one of the most picturesque valleys in Himachal, located around 25 km away from the Indo-Tibet border. Sangla derives its names from a Tibetan word Sangala which means “passage of light”.

Sangla village temple campus
Sangla – A blend of culture and natural beauty

We checked into Baspa guest house in the valley and after a few minutes of break, we headed out to explore the Sangla valley. After 10-15 minutes of walk, we reached the Bairing Nag temple.

Sangla Bairing Nag Temple
Sangla Bairing Nag Temple

After reaching there, we came to know that outsiders are not allowed inside the temple. But it’s still worth a visit for the amazing exteriors of the temple and the peaceful surroundings.

Some mind-blowing wooden work in Bairing Nag temple
Some mind-blowing wooden work in Bairing Nag temple
Amazing exteriors in the monastery in Bairing Nag temple complex
Amazing exteriors in the Buddhist monastery in Bairing Nag temple complex. Architecture of the temples in Kinnaur is a beautiful blend of Tibetan architecture and local Kath-Kuni architecture

A few hours into Sangla, I could feel that the best thing about this place is not just the beauty of it, but also the most friendly and amazing locals in this place. We had a great time in the Bairing Nag temple playing a game of volleyball with the kids and clicking pictures with the locals visiting the temple.

Meet the volleyball gang of Sangla Bairing Nag. Group photo clicked by Gautam Baliga
Meet the volleyball gang of Sangla Bairing Nag. Group photo clicked by Gautam Baliga
Gala time with kids in Sangla
Gala time with kids in Sangla
Local ladies of Sangla valley , Kinnaur
These young ladies in Sangla happily posed to our camera and selfies
The game of volleyball with kids in Sangla
The game of volleyball with kids in Sangla

The next day, we visited the Sangla Buddha temple/monastery. One of the monks in the monastery had done a part of his monk studies in Bylakuppe, and he got immersed into a long chat with us after he came to know that Gautam and Aashish were from Bangalore. With our visit to Sangla happening just after the release of Baahubali-2, it was evident from our conversation with monks that the Sangla valley was no exception to the bahubali fever that had gripped the entire nation that time. The monks in Sangla told me how several locals in Sangla had traveled to Shimla to watch this movie as there were no theaters in Kinnaur.

Sangla Buddhist Monastery gate
Sangla Buddhist Monastery gate
Inside Sangla Buddha Monastery.
Inside Sangla Buddha Monastery. Group photo clicked by Gautam Baliga

If you are one of those traveling to Kinnaur. no matter how much packed your itinerary may be, you must take a day off to explore the beauty of Sangla and Kamru. Sangla is undoubtedly one of the most idyllic spots I have visited in Kinnaur, thanks to the natural beauty and the super amazing locals there.

Places to visit:

Bairing Nag Temple
Sangla Buddhist Monastery
Kamru

Reaching Sangla Valley

Sangla is 360 km from Chandigarh and the travel may take 15 to 16 hours. Delhi to Sangla is approx 580 km. Below is the approach route for Sangla:
Shimla ⇒ Kufri ⇒ Fagu ⇒ Narkanda ⇒ Rampur ⇒ Jeori ⇒ Tapri ⇒ Karcham ⇒ Sangla
Public transport: There is a Chandigarh-Shimla-Sangla daily direct bus that starts from Shimla at 6 am. 2-3 buses also start from Reckong Peo for commuting within Kinnaur that stops at Sangla.

Best time to visit Sangla: Mid of May to October

Blog by Sandhya Sourirajan

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Blog Homestay Kalpa Winter in Kinnaur

Kalpa & Charang Snow Hikes | Winter in Kinnaur

After a long delay, finally posting pics of our winter trip to Kalpa, Charang Village & the Charang Rangrik Monastery. Charang village is the last village on the Indo-China Border. The last ITBP post is located in this village.

Winter in Kinnaur 

For the city folks, the village offers a complete escape from the busy city life. No network coverage — bosses can’t call you. For a comfort trip seeker, I will recommend Charang only during summers. In winters, with the temperature plunging to about -15 ºC & heavy snowfall blocking all the roadways for weeks — the place is either for the brave hearts or for ignorants like us. 

Hikes around Chini village of Kalpa valley

We reached Reckong Peo early in the morning and headed for a beautiful Chini village in Kalpa. We strolled there for an hour or two and visited Kalpa Buddhist monastery and newly built Narayanas temple. We spent the rest of the day at a friend’s place in Reckong Peo and took rest after 12 hrs enduring journey in the Chandigarh-Reckong Peo HRTC bus.

View of Pangi village from Kalpa , Kinnaur[Winter in Kinnaur]
View of Pangi village from Kalpa , Kinnaur
Unnamed peak on Kinner - Kailash mountain range[Winter in Kinnaur]

Unnamed peak on Kinner – Kailash mountain rangeNewly renovated Kalpa Narayanas temple[Winter in Kinnaur]

Newly renovated Kalpa Narayanas templeView of the valley , Kalpa , Kinnaur[Winter in Kinnaur]

View of the valley , Kalpa , KinnaurRoof of the Kalpa temple , Kinner Kailash peak (6050 m) in background [Winter in Kinnaur]

Roof of the Kalpa temple , Kinner Kailash peak (6050 m) in backgroundChini village , Kalpa , Kinnaur [Winter in Kinnaur]

Chini village , Kalpa , KinnaurChini temple , Kalpa , Kinnaur [Winter in Kinnaur 2015]

Chini temple , Kalpa , Kinnaur [Winter 2015]Unnamed peak on Kinner Kailash mountain range[Winter in Kinnaur 2015]

Unnamed peak on Kinner Kailash mountain rangeSnowy mountain tops above Barang village , Kinnaur[Winter in Kinnaur 2015]

Snowy mountain tops above Barang village , KinnaurJorkanden peak and adjoining peaks on Kinner Kailash Mountain range [Winter in Kinnaur 2015]

Jorkanden peak and adjoining peaks on Kinner Kailash Mountain rangeHiking to Kalpa football ground , Kinnaur[Winter in Kinnaur 2015]

Hiking to Kalpa football ground, KinnaurSnowball fighting on Kalpa football ground , Kinnaur[Winter in Kinnaur 2015]

Snowball fighting on Kalpa football ground, KinnaurChini village Kalpa , Kinner Kailash mountain range in background [Winter in Kinnaur 2015]

Chini village Kalpa, Kinner Kailash mountain range in background [Winter 2015]Chini village Kalpa , Raldang peak (5425 m) visible in background [Winter in Kinnaur 2015]

Chini village Kalpa , Raldang peak (5425 m) visible in backgroundSnow covered fields of locals from Chini village [Winter in Kinnaur 2015]

Snow covered fields of locals from Chini villageHiking to Kalpa football ground , Kinnaur [Winter in Kinnaur 2015]

Hiking to Kalpa football ground, KinnaurRaldang peak (5425 m ) , Kinner - Kailash mountain range , Kinnaur[Winter in Kinnaur 2015]

Raldang peak (5425 m ), Kinner – Kailash mountain range, Kinnaurwinter road to Kalpa , Kinnaur[Winter in Kinnaur 2015]

Kalpa – Roghi road, KinnaurStrolling in Kalpa football ground , Winters 2015 [Winter in Kinnaur 2015]

Strolling in Kalpa football ground, Winters 2015Snowballing and Killing time , Kalpa football ground , Kinnaur , [Winter in Kinnaur 2015]

Snowballing and Killing time, Kalpa football ground, Kinnaur

Reckong Peo to Akpa Check post bus ride & Long walks along the NH-05

Now coming to our next day’s experience I consider this as an achievement. Trekking on steep slopes for 20 km on snow for 8 hrs continuously. With no one to your rescue walking endlessly with those baby steps on snow…having no idea that we will be alive in the next 1 hr or not. We missed the early morning Reckong Peo – Thangi bus and had to take another bus which dropped us near Akpa check post around noon. We started walking along the highway, reached Moorang around 1 PM and took a taxi to Lambar ( the last motorable stop) in winters.  

World's most treacherous road , National Higway 05 , en route Moorang , Kinnaur [Winter in Kinnaur 2015]
World’s most treacherous road, National Higway 05, en route Moorang, Kinnaur
Walking the Himalayas , near Moorang bridge , Kinnaur[Winter in Kinnaur 2015]

Walking the Himalayas , near Moorang bridge , KinnaurMoorang fort , Tidong valley , Kinnaur [Winter in Kinnaur 2015]

Moorang fort , Tidong valley , KinnaurMoorang village , Tidong valley , Kinnaur [Winter in Kinnaur 2015]

Moorang village, Tidong valley, Kinnaur [Winter 2015]Slippery road near Moorang on National Highaway 05 [Winter in Kinnaur 2015]

Slippery road near Moorang on National Highaway 05 [Winter 2015]Moorang bridge , Tidong valley , Kinnaur [Winter in Kinnaur 2015]

Moorang bridge, Tidong valley, Kinnaur

Moorang to Thangi village taxi ride & the long hike to Charang village

We started the trek from Lambar at around 3 PM and reached Charang at about 11 pm. In the 20 km stretch, there were only three of us walking continuously. Because in that extreme weather a comma means full stop. If you stop you will freeze within minutes. At about 5 pm there was complete darkness…and even a slight sound nearby will flash images of a snow leopard or wild bears in your mind. Trekking in the night without a torch..the only thing to our rescue was the moonlight and the marks of the steps of the ITBP jawans on the snow…which kept us hopeful that we are heading in the right direction. Each one of us was having plenty of dry fruits but none of us was having the energy to stop & take those out of the bag. We were three friends Pawan Ranta, Amandeep Dhiman & myself. There is one ITBP post on the way to Charang which served as a base camp to the post at Charang. Thereafter traveling for about 14 km we got some warm water to drink. That warm water was like ‘amrit‘ and we thought that “ab hum bach jayyenge“. We stayed there for 15 to 20 minutes & then about 8 pm we started our trek to Charang with new hope & determination…but then again after traveling for about 1 km, we were regretting that why we didn’t stop there & request those ITBP jawans to allow us to stay there till morning. Now again, we were at the mercy of the mountains. We were not able to even speak….we were just moving & moving. During the complete trek, I was reciting God’s name and was hurling abuses & curses at Pawan who gave the idea of that trek. After traveling for another 6 km, there in the dark near the entrance of the Charang Village, were Sonu bhai, our savior standing there in the dark waiting for us. Sonu bhai took our backpacks and gave us new hope. And again we said ” Ab to lagata hai bach gaye“. Sonu bhai offered us shelter in their house offered food & saved our lives.  Raante credit goes to you also. We sat near the bukhara and ate food thanking God for keeping us alive. I started chanting my daily mantras thanking God.

The trails to Charang , Kinnaur [Winter in Kinnaur 2015]
The trails to Charang, Kinnaur [Winter 2015]
In Charang , Kinnaur [Winter in Kinnaur 2015]

In Charang, Kinnaur [Winter 2015]View of last ITBP check post and Rangrik Tungma monastery , Kinnaur [Winter in Kinnaur 2015]

View of last ITBP check post and Rangrik Tungma monastery , Kinnaur [Winter 2015]Halting place , en route Rangrik Tungma monastery , Charang Kinnaur [Winter in Kinnaur 2015]

Halting place, en route Rangrik Tungma monastery, Charang Kinnaur [Winter 2015]Waiting for the sunshine , Charang Kinnaur [Winter in Kinnaur 2015]

Waiting for the sunshine, Charang Kinnaur [Winter 2015]Trail to Rangrik Tungma monastery , Charang , Kinnaur [Winter in Kinnaur 2015]

The trail to Rangrik Tungma monastery, Charang, Kinnaur [Winter 2015]Charang village , Tidong valley , Kinnaur [Winter in Kinnaur 2015]

Charang village , Tidong valley , KinnaurHiking to Rangrik Tungma Monastery , Charang [Winter in Kinnaur 2015]

Hiking to Rangrik Tungma Monastery , Charang [Winter 2015]Dogs in Charang , Kinnaur [Winter in Kinnaur 2015]

Dogs in Charang , KinnaurPrayer flags in Rangrik Tungma monastery , Charang , Kinnaur [Winter in Kinnaur 2015]

Prayer flags in Rangrik Tungma monastery , Charang , Kinnaur [Winter 2015]Chorten , a Buddhist stupa , Charang Kinnaur [Winter in Kinnaur 2015]

Chorten , a Buddhist stupa , Charang Kinnaur [Winter 2015]Charang snowscape , Kinnaur [Winter in Kinnaur 2015]

Charang snowscape , Kinnaur [Winter 2015]Prayer flags , Charang , Kinnaur [Winter in Kinnaur 2015]

Prayer flags , Charang , Kinnaur [Winter 2015]Searching for network in Charang , Kinnaur[Winter in Kinnaur 2015]

Searching for network in Charang , Kinnaur

The next dawn gave us a new hope & we visited the Rangrik Monastery and offered prayers and visited the last ITBP post on the Indo China border.

Walking with the wind , returning from Charang , Kinnaur [Winter in Kinnaur 2015]
Walking with the wind, returning from Charang, Kinnaur [Winter 2015]
Singing stream , Tidong [Winter in Kinnaur 2015]

Singing stream, Tidong [Winter Kinnaur 2015]Walking along Tidong stream while returning back from Charang , Kinnaur [winter 2015]

Walking along Tidong stream while returning from Charang, Kinnaur [winter 2015]

Oh! I have written such a long story…I know many of you won’t read but I know that many more will read. The story is to keep my memories on records.

Blog by: Saurabh Tiwari

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Homestay

Cherring’s homestay , Kibber

Cherring’s Homestay is located in Kibber village of the Spiti Valley. It has traditional Spitian home decor and furnishing. Rooms are spacious and have good natural lighting.

The fireplace , Cherring homestay , Kibber
Bedroom , Cherring homestay , Kibber

To book a room at Cherring’s homestay please visit Airbnb link.
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